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Behind the Scenes

the shu uemura spring collection designed in collaboration with japanese artist ob, features four princesses each with their own persona. the second makeup look that i did was based on the cherry blossom princess.

princesses

here’s a look behind-the-scenes at how i created the look using the pink spring palette on lovely model christine mccabe:

Shu-Spring-2

some retouching on set

 

FACE:

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EYES:

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  • load up natural brush 10 with light pink shade and press all over lids all the way up to brow and on lower lid
  • brush 11 and light pink shade to soften edges and extend slightly onto temples

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  • use brush 11 to extend light pink shade onto cheekbone area

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  • natural brush 10 and apply dark pink shade to crease; soften with brush 11

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  • brush 5R or 10 to apply dark pink shade along outer lower lid

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  • use natural brush 10 to layer light brown and deep brown shades into the outer crease area of eyes; soften with brush 11

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CHEEKS:
  • brush 15 to apply glow on in M soft orange 542 (blending into pink shade on temples)
  • brush 15 to apply glow on P vivid orange 551 to cheek bones (blending with the pink shadow and the M soft orange glow on)

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  • add more colour if necessary

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  • after having put on the lashes, i decided to deepen the crease area further with the brown shades

LIPS:

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  • line lips with nude lip liner

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HAIR:

soft princess curls hairstyle designed by Lip Lap of Initium Hair in Markham, Ontario.

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and here’s the completed image:

photo

hope you enjoyed the post! share with all of the makeup artists out there! have fun experimenting!

for spring 2013, shu uemura collaborates with young japanese artist ob to celebrate the rise in a new sensitivity in art. according to ob,

“… reality lies in the world of ambiguity. In between the innocent, beautiful dream world and the physical world. That is what [she] want[s] to express in [her] collection.” – ob

she created a universe where four princesses can be found: cherry blossom princess,  moon princess, forest princess and ocean princess. for the collection, i had the opportunity to create four makeup looks using the new spring eyeshadows and lipsticks to reflect the four princesses.

princesses

this is how i created the ocean princess:

FACE:
  • apply UV brightening underbase using pentagon sponge to even out and prep skin for application of pastel colours
  • brush 18 to apply FA illuminating moisture foundation in fair beige
  • cover crayon to conceal darkness under eyes and redness around nose and lips. blend with synthetic brush 10.
  • brush 18R to apply face powder matte in colourless

EYES: (blue palette) click here to read my review on the eyeshadow palettes

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  • cover crayon on lids to even out skin tone for pastel colours. blend using synthetic brush 10.
  • brush 10F to apply brown painting liner on upper and lower lash line
  • natural brush 10 to apply light blue shade all over upper and lower lids…

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  • extend out to temples

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  • natural brush 10 to apply deeper blue shade to crease…

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  • …brush 11 to soften.

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  • brush 10 to apply light blue and deep blue shade to lower lid

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  • brush 10 and brush 11 to apply lavender shade above temples blending into the blue shade.

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  • brush 15 to apply yellow shade on cheekbone blending into blue shade on temples.

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  • fill in brows using hard formula in seal brown

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  • line water line with pearly white drawing pencil
  • curl lashes
  • apply natural mascara in black
  • apply oceans beads mini lashes
  • brush 2R to line upper and lower lash line
CHEEKS:

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  • brush 20 to apply glow on in M soft pink

LIPS:

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  • line lips with nude lip liner
  • fill in with light beige rouge unlimited
  • apply gold gloss to centre of lips

HAIR: designed by Lip Lam for Initium Hair

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and here’s the final image:

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for the makeup artists out there, have fun experimenting with this look!

review for the ob collection to come soon!

the Karl Lagerfeld for shu uemura holiday 2012 collection had been long awaited! mon shu girls have been seen everywhere from japan, to australia, to france and to my home country canada. together with my team mark darren and james mui, we transformed lovely model elizabeth into our very own mon shu girl! we had so much fun with all of the fun makeup and the wig!

i used the smoky velvet palette and the mon shu red lipstick paired with the burgundy luxe lipstick from the collection to create this look and my wonderful husband was there to capture the process step-by-step:

Face
  • tsuya skin serum and tsuya uv underbase using pentagon sponge
  • illuminating moisture foundation in 564 and brush 18
  • pro gel cealer to conceal imperfections using natural brush 10
  • face powder matte using brush 18R
  • spritz depsea water for a glowing finish

create thick lines to shape eyes using black painting liner and natural brush 5F; set and soften the painting liner with the black shimmery shade

use shimmery black shade and natural brush 10 to create depth for crease; 

blend to desired shape using natural brush 10

blend to desired shape using natural brush 10

apply emerald shade to the centre of lids using natural brush 10

create gradation from the black shade using brush 11 and emerald shade; soften edges using the grey shade and brush 11

lower lid…
  • apply black shade to lower lid using natural brush 10F
  • soften and create gradation using the emerald shade and brush 10F
  • highlight inner corners of the eyes using the white gold glitter shade and brush 4R

curl lashes
apply xtreme stretch mascara
apply karl for shu premium lashes

apply red blush from the palette using brush 15; dab and blend outward

line the outside of lips using cover crayon and blend with synthetic brush 10 (to prevent the red lipstick from bleeding out)

apply mon shu red lipstick using portable lip brush; apply luxe burgundy lipstick using portable lip brush to the outer corners of lips and centre crease of lips to create the illusion of fuller, more dimensional lips

and here comes the wig!

we had so much fun with this shoot!

here are some on set photos taken by mark:

and here’s the final image:

do they look a like ? lol =)

thanks for reading!!

for the exciting karl lagerfeld for shu uemura launch, i had the pleasure of creating two looks using the two beautiful eyeshadow palettes from the collection. for the first of the two looks, i used the prestigious bordeaux palette to create a soft and romantic look for the holiday season. the eyeshadow texture is so velvety; it was so easy to put together a rich look.

photographer mark darren mui, retoucher james mui, hairstylist danny mak and beautiful model geneviève helped to make it all happen. my husband came along to help me take step-by-step photos during the creation of the look.

step-by-step:

(to view shu uemura products click here. to browse shu uemura brushes, click here.)

karl for shu painting liner in blackish satin purple using brush 10F

shu uemura double-ended eye crayon to define crease

blend to desired shape using natural brush 10

prestigious bordeaux palette deep purple shade in crease using brush 10, then soften with

brush 11

create gradation with deep brown shade and brush 11

extend outward to desired shape using brush 11

fill centre of lid using light purple shade and natural brush 10

deepen crease using deep purple shade and brush 5R

deep purple shade to lower lid using brush 10 then create gradation using deep brown shade and brush10F

curl lashes

tight line and line eyes using painting liner in blackish satin purple and brush 2R

line lower lash line with painting liner and brush 2R

highlight inner corners using golden glitter shade and brush 4R

apply shu uemura xtreme stretch mascara (it’s a fibre mascara so you can build volume and length)

lightly fill brows using shu uemura hard formula (seal brown)

apply red blush from palette using brush 15; use patting circular motion for a natural flush

line outside of lips with shu uemura cover crayon concealer and blend with synthetic brush 10 (to prevent lipstick from bleeding)

apply luxe burgundy lipstick using lip brush

dab golden glitter shadow to centre of lips for a holiday accent

apply karl for shu mini lashes

paint nails in karl for shu royal beige

decorate with nail stickers! (they came with the nail polishes)

hair styled by danny

and voilà! here’s the finished image:

prom is just around the corner! a very exciting time for those finishing up their high school career and a time where a shopping frenzy for the perfect dress and the right makeup look begins!

i was invited as lead makeup artist at the holt renfrew prom fashion show event at yorkdale mall this past weekend. i was so excited to create four different makeup looks to reflect four different types of outfits: vintage, brights, rocker and ladylike. to keep the look young and fresh for a teen, i decided to modernize some classic looks. here are my tips on doing this:

1. vintage look: to keep the look soft and romantic, try using blush as eyeshadow. use a light pink over the lid and a deeper pink in your crease. to make pink wearable around the eyes, remember to pair it with brown eyeliner and a set of fluffy falsies. 

makeup look created and done by patricia lee 


2. brights: take your regular natural look makeup and add a touch of colour on the outer edge of the crease colour.

makeup look created by patricia lee and done by shima

3. rocker: replace the black eyeshadow for the smoky eye with metallic shades of blue or purple.makeup look created by patricia lee and done by sarah yama

4. ladylike: pick a red lipstick with flecks of gold to keep it youthful and opt for a brown gel liner rather than black for the winged eye.

makeup look created by patricia and done by eva

all those tips will keep the look young which is much more suitable for the age group. most importantly, keep the skin looking dewy. beautiful makeup always begins with beautiful skin. here’s how to achieve the dewy look:
  1. skin care routine: cleanse, hydrate, treat, moisturize. for young skin, i recommend using the shu uemura depsea hydrability line which contains a high concentrate of depsea water – very moisturizing but light.
  2. makeup base: shu uemura uv underbase mousse evens out skin before foundation and gives something for the foundation to adhere to which ensures that makeup lasts all night.
  3. foundation: for a dewy glow, use shu uemura face architect illuminating moisture foundation. for the looks, i didn’t finish off with powder, but if you have combination skin, dust some loose powder on your t-zone.

here are some photos from the event. i had a great time working with my team at shu uemura yorkdale and had the honour of doing makeup for liv judd shopping editor of loulou magazine.

The make-up look that Kakuyasu Uchiide created for the JCDC was stunning. The collection’s theme was the black eagle and Uchiide-San designed an intricate look to reflect it. I must say that it was a very challenging and technical look that requires a lot of patience, as there was a lot of gradation involved using dark eyeshadows. It took 45-60 minutes to complete one model! It was so hectic backstage as hairstylists and makeup artists worked hard to complete everything on time! At one point uk senior artist haydn jones and i were working on one model together in order to speed up the process! Uchiide-San couldn’t help but giggle at the sight of us – true team work!

I was so honored when Uchiide-San came to personally help me as I was starting the look. I’ve learned so much and have so much to practice! Uchiide-San always makes things look so simple, but the shu uemura brush technique is like no other; It requires so much discipline. Watching him at work is like watching an artist paint his canvas with impeccable precision. I’ll never forget this experience.

the venue: l’oratoire du louvre

my workstation

reference photo of the gothic makeup look created by kakuyashu uchiide for JCDC

backstage makeup area (top floor of l’oratoire du louvre); it got pretty crazy in here!

my first model complete. i loved uchiide-san’s creation of the feathered graphic design on the temple.

my second model complete. she’s canadian! amanda from ottawa – such a sweetheart.

a crazy scramble backstage just before the show


i
nside the venue – p. diddy was at this show! lol

my model rocking the catwalk!

photos taken from www.madame.lefigaro.fr

 

watch the show! the music really completed the show creating an eery ambiance.

JC de CASTELBAJAC FIRE ON ICE AW12/13 from JCDCnews on Vimeo.

I felt so honored to be invited by talented Kakuyasu Uchiide (international director of shu uemura) to shadow him at a full-day editorial shoot with Soon Magazine. The four breath taking looks created by Uchiide were shot by renowned French photographer Thomas Paquet. I was blown away watching Uchiide-San build lashes out of real rose petals! I was almost in tears seeing the beauty being created just a few feet away from me! Uchiide-San was so patient and attentive while creating each of the four looks inspired by rebirth in nature. I didn’t want the day to end. This was an incredible experience that I will forever carry with me throughout my makeup career. I even got a photo signed by Thomas and Uchiide-San! Uchiide-San has truly inspired me, yet again, to strive to better my technique and to search for beauty around me.
kakuyasu uchiide international artistic director of shu uemura. i’ve honestly never had an “idol” before until now. character + talent = truly admirable.
ludovic engrand PR manager for shu uemura. he arranged everything for me; truly made me feel like part of the family.
haydn jones senior make-up artist from UK. like a big brother, he taught and helped me so, so much backstage during the fashion shows.
yumiko yamamoto chief make-up artist UK. such a kind heart; she shared her love and passion for shu uemura with me.
the editorial magazine only comes out four times a year! i have to find out how i can get my hands on it!

ever since i first started as shu uemura’s official make-up artist for north america, kakuyasu uchiide – international artistic director for shu uemura – has kept in touch with me and is always so kind in providing me with guidance. uchiide-san is such a talented artist and has such a sincere passion for the true beauty behind the art. i had the honour of being invited by uchiide-san to work along side him and his france team during paris fashion week.

working along side kakuyasu uchiide was truly an honor. i was amazed watching him apply makeup with such ease and precision. despite such a hectic schedule, he was so calm, patient and helpful. he taught me so much even though there was so much going on. working backstage for such a renowned designer and with such an amazing team of shu uemura artists led by gracious uchiide-san was more than i could ever ask for! his concept seemed so simple, but requires so much skill; who would have thought drawing a straight rectangular line could be such a challenge! each model’s eyes are so different, requiring much skill to adapt the shape perfectly. the look inspired by a glowing, rosy face after a day on the slopes fit the collection magically. big thank you to uchiide-san for such an unforgettable experience!

my workstation

begins to get busy…

uchiide-san demos to the team the makeup look he created 

off to work i go! (photo taken from www.puretrend.com)

my first model complete

 

my second model done (photo taken from www.elle.com)

 

watch the show!

studio910.ca did such an amazing job in creating this cute video for bride lili and groom dave. i had such a great time doing lili’s makeup using the shu uemura sunset gold palette and shu pink lipsticks. the bridesmaids were in royal blue, so using the colour atelier eyeshadows in blue hues, i created soft, smokey blue eyes for them. it was a fun morning!

 

Lili + Dave from Studio 910 on Vimeo.

for a photo shoot with photographer teddy chau, i was creating a makeup look using the shu uemura wkw holiday collection burning in water palette on model effie tsorovas. the colours are so vibrant and are so well captured in photos. here is a behind-the-scenes shot / sneak peak at the look:

the collection is so beautiful; from the packaging, to the colours.

holographic image taken during the creation of wong kar wai’s short film “mask”.

drowning in flame palette. so lovely for creating soft, natural, romantic looks.

the perfect accent to a holiday look. jeweled love partial lashes. a must-try!

burning in water palette. for eyes that make a statement.

the beautiful premium lashes – dance in glitter.

such pretty nail polishes! i shall do a post on these soon. i’m wearing these colours as we speak.

i wanted to create a wearable look using the burning in water palette. sometimes we’re afraid to use bold colours, but give icy eyes a try this winter season:

warm up the edges with brown eyeshadow to make the look very wearable. i’m also using the shu uemura ultimate natural mascara which keeps lashes curled. for my brows, hard formula in seal brown for brows that stay put.

rather than a bold red (i used the wkw rouge luster on effie), try the wkw  pink flush for a softer look:

it’s an extremely moisturizing lipstick. i’m absolutely in love with this lipstick.

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