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the shu uemura spring 2013 dream blossom collection features five new glow ons. these glow ons are all of pearl texture so they reflect light subtly giving the most natural glow of colour. shu uemura glow ons have always been amongst a makeup artist’s favourites. it’s because of it’s smooth texture that creates such a flawless, non-powdery finish. it’s extremely finely milled and is even safe to use around the eye area.

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from top to bottom: P light yellow 020, P vivid orange 551, P soft orange 542, P soft coral 332, P soft pink 324

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left to right: P light yellow 020, P vivid orange 551, P soft orange 542, P soft coral 332, P soft pink 324

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P soft yellow 020

P soft yellow is perfect for highlighting. it gives a beautiful glow to cheekbones and the bridge of the nose. i find the finish and highlighting effect is best when applied with brush 13G. for the smoothest and most beautiful application, be sure to use the flat side of the brush to apply glow on.

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brush 13G (click on image to visit the shu uemura site)

Photo5P vivid orange 551

P vivid orange is a high pigment glow on so a little goes a long way! this shade would look lovely on tan skin. i would recommend using this shade after having had a bit of colour from the sun. if your skin is still fair from the long winter months, i would opt for the P soft orange shade. i suggest applying this glow on as a contour (more in the hollows of the cheeks) using brush 20h. use a light sweeping motion beginning from the upper part of ear sweeping towards the nose in a diagonal line. *picture an imaginary line going downward from the outer part of your eye and be sure not to pass this line!

20h

brush 20h (click on image to visit the shu uemura site)

Photo4P soft orange 542

P soft orange is such a warm and peachy shade. it looks so great on fair skin, but also gives a healthy sun-kissed glow to tan skin. i would recommend applying this shade to the apples of the cheeks using brush 20. for the most colour payoff, but sure to use the flat side of the brush to apply (and not the tips of the bristles). most shu uemura brushes are designed flat, as opposed to dome-shaped. this gives a smoother finish with precision and avoids fall off or having powder fly everywhere!

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brush 20 (click on image to visit the shu uemura site)

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P soft coral 332

P soft coral is one of my favourites! it gives the most natural rosy flush to the apples of the cheeks. my foundation shade is medium light sand 564 and i find that this shade and the P soft pink look best. i find that pink blushers brighten up my skin as opposed to the orange shades.

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P soft pink

P soft pink is such a pretty shade. it’s perfect for a sweet makeup look. it looks adorable on fair skin and on more tan skin it peaks through like a healthy flush. i recommend applying this shade on the apples of the cheeks using brush 20.

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doubles as an eyeshadow or a glow on case

the collectable unmask palette case, just like the regular shu uemura cases, can be used for eyeshadow and glow on refills. simply slide out the inside holder and pop in the refills! no magnets or adhesive required.

pick your shade and have fun creating your makeup looks!

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for the collection, our international artistic direct kakuyasu uchiide created a beautiful chocolatey look using the orange & pistachio palette. for second look that i did for the new shu uemura fall 2012 chocolat-donna collection, i wanted to use the palettes in a slightly different way. i focused more on the pistachio green in the orange & pistachio palette since it’s such a unique colour. i also wanted to incorporate the mint & vanilla palette, so i used the mint green shimmery shadow for highlighting.

photographer mark darren helped me to create these lovely images of model and actress sarah lian:

decorate a sensual chocolatey eye with hint of pistachio to the centre of the lids. this really switches up the typical neutral eye. complete the lovely lady-like look with a bold and glossy red lip for added drama.

to get the look:

FACE
  • for a flawless canvas, prep skin with concentrate (tsuya skin was used on model – review on this product to come soon!)
  • apply tsuya uv underbase mousse to smooth away pores so that foundation glides on perfectly (review to come)
  • use brush 18 to apply face architect smooth fit fluid foundation in 564
  • use cover crayon concealer in 7YR ML to under eye, nose and outer corner of lip area and on blemishes and use synthetic brush 10 to blend
  • use brush 18R and face powder matte in colourless to set
EYES
  • use natural brush 10 and apply creamy eye shadow in p medium olive 461 to eye socket to create shape
  • use natural brush 10 and apply matte light brown shade from the pistachio & orange palette over the creamy shadow; use brush 11 to soften
  • deepen definition using brush 10 and apply dark matte brown shade from the same palette to crease and lower lid
  • use brush 11 and apply pistachio shade to the centre of lid
  • use brush 4R to apply orange shade to inner corner and lower lid
  • use brush 12 highlight brow bone with peach shade from palette (the mint shade from the mint & vanilla palette was used on model)
  • leave brows or simply apply brow manicure in ash brown to leave focus on the eyes
  • use brush 2R to line eyes with black painting liner
  • curl lashes and apply stretch xtreme mascara
  • apply choco-lash partial lashes
CHEEKS
  • use brush 20 to apply apricot glow on to apples of cheeks
LIPS
  • line lips with nude lip liner 
  • use lip brush to apply rouge unlimited in rd160
  • apply clear lip vinyl over top
TIP
  • if enlarged pores are of concern, a quick tip to fix this is to apply face powder matte in colourless before applying foundation and again after. by applying the loose powder before, pores are smoothed away, which creates a smooth canvas for foundation to glide over.

i didn’t have my husband there to take some step-by-step photos this time. i’ll be sure to bring him next time!

so many of us shy away from colours because we’re not sure how to wear them. i wanted to do a follow-up post on the one i did about sultry yellow and green makeup. the key to making colours wearable is colour placement. i’ll show with you some tips on how to do this.

i’ll be taking the same eyeshadow colours from the below look  and turning it into a wearable version on myself (please excuse the bright lighting for the photos of myself – i had to take the photos by myself on a small camera with a large flash!):

tips on how to re-create this look. you can basically do this with any colour; you just need a lighter base colour, a darker colour and a matte brown. don’t shy away from colours! :

  1. colour placement:
  • take me soft yellow 336 and apply it using brush 10 all over lid starting from the centre (close to the lash line) and blending away to create a nice gradation.
  • use brush 10 and take p dark green 595 and place the colour on the outer corner of eye (the brush is the perfect round shape to place the colour – do this by lightly pressing the eyeshadow on to avoid eyeshadow falling off onto your face) and lightly sweep it inward towards the centre of eye.
  •  take clean brush 11 and soften the edges of the dark green.
  • use brush 5R to apply me soft yellow green 432 to the inner corner of eye and lower inner 1/3 of lash line.
  1. warm up and tone down the colour with matte brownthis is my big trick on making literally any bright colour wearable. i take m dark brown 895 (i can’t live without this colour; i use it with almost every makeup look), using brush 11 and i soften the edges of the darker shade of eyeshadow. so in this case, the dark green. this automatically tones down the colours and makes it wearable.
  2. finish off with a pair of fluffy falsies. if you’d like the colour to be less “loud”, wear a pair of fluffy full lashes like shu uemura smoky layers (which is what i’m wearing in the photos), so that when your eyes are opened, the colour just peaks out from behind them. if you want the colours to really show, opt for a pair of more natural lashes like the shu uemura soft cross.
  3. get the right brushes. i know brushes can be expensive, but there’s a reason why shu uemura brushes have a higher price point. they are designed for precise colour placement and limit the fall off of eyeshadow onto your face. the kollinsky hair brushes are porous, so they pick up a lot of the eyeshadow pigment of place it directly on the eye without the pigment flying out everywhere like fluffy brushes do. to blend colour, use the flat part of the brush to create gradations, rather than fluffy brushes that tend to make the eyeshadow fall everywhere. the essential shu uemura brushes are:
  • brush 10 – for colour placement,
  • brush 11 to soften edges and blend colours together,
  • brush 5R for inner corner (so good for glitter shadows because it places the glitter where is should go without fall off)

click HERE to browse the many fun shu uemura colours. you can seriously re-create this look with any of the colours. just choose one base colour, one darker contour colour and the must-have m dark brown 895 to make it wearable. have fun with it!

for my skin, i’m using the new shu uemura whitefficient uv underbase mousse. it’s a new brightening formula, so it has a purple/pink tint to colour correct and a formula containing vitamin C, algae-white and prune extract that brightens dark spots and inhibits melanin production. the whitefficient line is my current skin care obsession! it’ll be available soon!

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