how-to: orange & pistachio chocolate for fall
for the collection, our international artistic direct kakuyasu uchiide created a beautiful chocolatey look using the orange & pistachio palette. for second look that i did for the new shu uemura fall 2012 chocolat-donna collection, i wanted to use the palettes in a slightly different way. i focused more on the pistachio green in the orange & pistachio palette since it’s such a unique colour. i also wanted to incorporate the mint & vanilla palette, so i used the mint green shimmery shadow for highlighting.
photographer mark darren helped me to create these lovely images of model and actress sarah lian:
decorate a sensual chocolatey eye with hint of pistachio to the centre of the lids. this really switches up the typical neutral eye. complete the lovely lady-like look with a bold and glossy red lip for added drama.
to get the look:
- for a flawless canvas, prep skin with concentrate (tsuya skin was used on model – review on this product to come soon!)
- apply tsuya uv underbase mousse to smooth away pores so that foundation glides on perfectly (review to come)
- use brush 18 to apply face architect smooth fit fluid foundation in 564
- use cover crayon concealer in 7YR ML to under eye, nose and outer corner of lip area and on blemishes and use synthetic brush 10 to blend
- use brush 18R and face powder matte in colourless to set
- use natural brush 10 and apply creamy eye shadow in p medium olive 461 to eye socket to create shape
- use natural brush 10 and apply matte light brown shade from the pistachio & orange palette over the creamy shadow; use brush 11 to soften
- deepen definition using brush 10 and apply dark matte brown shade from the same palette to crease and lower lid
- use brush 11 and apply pistachio shade to the centre of lid
- use brush 4R to apply orange shade to inner corner and lower lid
- use brush 12 highlight brow bone with peach shade from palette (the mint shade from the mint & vanilla palette was used on model)
- leave brows or simply apply brow manicure in ash brown to leave focus on the eyes
- use brush 2R to line eyes with black painting liner
- curl lashes and apply stretch xtreme mascara
- apply choco-lash partial lashes
- use brush 20 to apply apricot glow on to apples of cheeks
- line lips with nude lip liner
- use lip brush to apply rouge unlimited in rd160
- apply clear lip vinyl over top
- if enlarged pores are of concern, a quick tip to fix this is to apply face powder matte in colourless before applying foundation and again after. by applying the loose powder before, pores are smoothed away, which creates a smooth canvas for foundation to glide over.
i didn’t have my husband there to take some step-by-step photos this time. i’ll be sure to bring him next time!
Do you think the new Glow on blush Framboisier would look on Asian skintones? I was going to purchase the Gllow on Pink 30 M or P when I learned they had discontinued it. I have the Nars Orgasm and while I like it, I’m looking for a shimmerless and more natural looking pink for almost daily wear. I have recently bought Tarte’s Amazonian clay blush in Exposed and it looks horrible on me. Afraid to buy blush without being able to try it on but Shu has pulled out of the States so it is definitely a risk and a lot of hassle if i need to return it.
Hi kyung! I personally love the framboisier glow on; I’m 564 (medium light sand) in foundation and the colour looks great on my skin tone. I like it because it’s a warmer, deeper rose colour so it’s great for providing slight contour for my face as well. Another colour that I use on a lot of my Asian clients is m soft coral 345; it’s a pinkish peach tone and goes lovely with Asian skin tones. Honestly shu has the best blush out there; it’s so finely milled, so it applies to naturally and smoothly. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions 🙂
Patricia, thanks so much !! Getting advice from a Shu makeup artist is invaluable. May I ask for one more suggestion? Could you recommend an eyeshadow I could use for an “everyday” look? Is it tacky to use only one color on the eyes instead of two at the same time? There are so many shades and types to choose from on Shu’s website and i really don’t know what to pick. Trying to make it $50 for free shipping : – ) Thanks again Patricia!
Hi Kyung! You can ask me as many questions as you’d like! as for eyeshadows, i always recommend using at least 2 colours in order to give your eyes some dimension. for a quick everyday look, this is what i suggest for a super easy and awesome look (i do this and it takes me 10min. and i always get asked how i do it :)): use dark matte brown m895 and create a gradation starting a bit off-centre (closer to the outer corner of eye), then choose any metallic or pearl colour (like me medium brown 862 or p soft beige 823 and start closer to the inner corner and blend it out slightly into the dark brown. You just inspired me to do more blog posts on simple wearable looks for my readers! i need to start making more time! 🙂
Is the first model’s lip color the m br761?
The first image was done by our international artistic director in japan, so i’m not sure which shade he used for the visual… sorry! 🙂