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smoky eyes: linda and kevin’s wedding

May 14, 2012
Bridal, how to
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i had the pleasure of being the makeup artist for linda and her lovely bridesmaids in november of 2011. when i met linda and her sister for the first time for her makeup and hair trial, she wanted very natural makeup since she normally doesn’t wear any at all. later on, her sister convinced her to go for something more dramatic and i’m so glad she was open to the idea.

natural makeup is always so lovely for brides, but that doesn’t mean that smoky eyes shouldn’t be worn on the wedding day. with the right makeup products, you won’t need to worry about smudging if you happen to turn on the waterworks! i used shu uemura black painting liner which is waterproof once dry.

for linda’s makeup, i used a mix of black, grey and silver makeup. and of course, i used my go-to eyeshadow m dark brown 895 to warm it all up. i use this shade with almost all makeup looks that i create.

linda has very fine and thin hair and she wanted some serious volume for her wedding day. so for her hair, i curled it with a straightening iron to ensure the curls stayed all day long, i backcombed her entire head to add volume then brushed and pinned it all to the side.

for the bridesmaids, to go with their pewter dresses, i chose champagne eyeshadows.

here’s a video done by talented cinematographer vladimir druts. check out some of his work; he does a wide range of work: from weddings, to documentaries to fashion cinematography.

see below for a list of shu uemura eyeshadows used to create the bride and the bridesmaids’ looks.

linda’s smoky eyes:

bridesmaids’ champagne eyes:

how to create warm sea green eyes with new shu uemura eyeshadows

May 14, 2012
how to
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the weather is getting much warmer! time to switch our darks for some colour. for those who always stick to neutral eyeshadows, a simple way to incorporate a bit of colour to your look is to switch your base colour eyeshadow in your shu uemura quad to a fun coloured eyeshadow. makeup is all about experimenting, so have some fun!

i chose to experiment with one of the new shu uemura eyeshadow shades: P light green 520. i simply used it as my base colour and did my makeup as i would normally. to keep the look soft, i used shu uemura brown painting liner on my upper and lower lash line rather than black, which can be a bit harsh. i also used shu uemura farfallina lashes, which are a mix of brown and black which keeps the look soft as well.

this is the look i wore to launch the new mamechiyo limited edition collection of uv underbases and cleansing oils (pick them up now before we run out! i’m stocking up on the bb beige uv underbase!):

here’s how to create the look:

FACE:

  • mamechiyo uv underbase in bb beige to even out my skin (especially those blemishes from occasional breakouts)
  • face architect smoothing fluid foundation in 564 (medium light sand)  (which is semi-matte because my skin tends to get a bit oily in the warmer months)
  • glow on in 561 (it’s a matte medium peach) on the apples of my cheeks, then i soften the edges on my cheekbones using glow on P510 (a pearl light peach)

EYES:

  • since the band of the false lashes is a little thicker than the natural lashes, i used brush 10F (flat brush) to press painting liner in brown in my upper lash line (creating sort of a base near the lash line)
  • use brush 10 and eyeshadow P light green 520 and apply from lash line up, creating a gradation form lash line up to crease.
  • use brush 10 and apply P medium brown 875 to lash line and outer corner. soften outer corner with m dark brown 895 and brush 11.
  • use brush 11 and apply m light beige 813 to brown bone and blend into the dark brown to soften.
  • use black painting liner and brush 4F to tight line upper lash line
  • use brown painting liner and brush 4F to line upper and lower lash line.
  • use brush 10F and m dark brown 895 to soften lower lash line
  • use brush 5R (pencil brush) and me gold soft gold 335 to inner corner
  • curl lashes, apply ultimate natural mascara in brown (it’s light and keeps the curl of the lashes so that the falsies can sit on top of them and use them as a base) and apply farfallina lashes which adds some serious volume and length!

click here to discover shu uemura eyeshadows

click here to discover shu uemura hand crafted brushes 

BROWS:

  • hard formula in seal brown. start in the middle of the brown and apply in strokes following the direction of hair growth
  • soften the brown using brush 6OB to brush through your brows

LIPS:

And here’s my lovely shu uemura team at yorkdale holt renfrew launching the mamechiyo collection and featuring our new rouge unlimited lipsticks and new eyeshadow shades:

how to create a soft coral look for summer using new shu uemura eyeshadow shades

May 9, 2012
how to, reviews
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dear shu fans,

shu uemura just launched new shades of eyeshadows! for those who love shu eyeshadows, you know  how beautiful the texture is. it’s the best eyeshadow out there; it’s made up of minuscule powders to adhere firmly to the skin, so it goes on super smoothly which gives the appearance of a creamy finish.

for those who have yet to discover shu uemura eyeshadows, there are five different finishes to choose from:

  1. matte (M) – extreme colour payoff with a super soft texture
  2. pearl (P) – reflective pearls to give a silky shine
  3. iridescent (IR) – changes colour with light reflection at different angles
  4. metallic (ME) – silicone based oil for a deep metallic shine (appears dewy)
  5. glitter (G) – fine glitter that’s perfect for highlighting the inner corners of the eyes or to layer on eyeshadows

with all the pinks and corals that we see this season, try creating a soft coral look for this summer season. i was recently in japan and noticed all the girls with bright pink and peach cheeks and fluffy eyelashes; this is such a sweet, dolly look which is what we’ve been seeing on the runways as well.

here’s how to create the look:

SKIN:

for even and fresh looking skin, i used limited edition shu uemura bb beige uv underbase (SPF30) from the mamechiyo collection. (bb stands for blemish balm; it has higher coverage to even out skin and improves the texture of skin over time). then i used shu uemura  face architect glowing fit powder foundation (which contains SPF26) in 564 (medium light sand). a powder foundation for summer time is great, it’s mattifying and doesn’t feel heavy.

CHEEKS:

use brush 20 and apply shu uemura glow on M medium peach 561 to apples of the cheeks (for dolly look apply more colour to the centre of the apple and create a gradation extending outwards). use glow on P light peach 510 to highlight cheekbones, bridge of nose and under eyes.

EYES:

  1. use drawing pencil in brown and line upper and lower lash line and smudge/soften with finger.
  2. use brush 10 and apply P light coral 131 all over lid. tip: start from lash line and create a gradation upwards covering the entire lid.
  3. use brush 10 and apply P medium brown 875 to outer corner of eye. tip: gently sweep the colour on and use patting motion to soften; this will prevent fall off of eyeshadow onto cheek
  4. use brush 11 and dab a small amount of P dark brown 895. use this to soften the edges of the medium brown shade.
  5. use brush 11 and apply P light beige 822 to brow bone and blending into the P dark brown 895.
  6. use brush 10F (flat brush) and press P medium brown 875 into outer 2/3 of lower lash line.
  7. use brush 10F and press P light coral 131 to inner 1/3 of lower lash line. (tip: if you have dark circles, apply you can extend the coral shade lower than the inner corner of your eye; this will reflect light which reduces the darkness).
  8. use brush 2R and black painting liner to line upper and lower lash line. don’t forget to fill under and in between your upper lash line to create an appearance of a fuller lash line.
  9. curl lashes and apply shu uemura ultimate expression mascara to upper and lower lashes.
  10. finish with shu uemura smoky layers false eyelashes.

left to right: ME light silver 935, ME soft gold 335, P light coral 131, ME soft pink 155,  P light green 520, P light blue 611, P medium brown 875, P dark plum 790, ME light beige, 825, P light beige 822.

LIPS:

i’m using one of the 19 new shu uemura lipstick shades. its improved formula has much higher colour payoff (higher coverage) and is more moisturizing than the previous formula. it also has great staying power. the colour i’m using is PK320 (seashell pink). the colours always look brighter in the tube, but look super natural when applied to lips.

have fun experimenting!

makeup ideas for prom: holt renfrew prom fashion show

April 26, 2012
Behind the Scenes, fashion, how to, Media, Video
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prom is just around the corner! a very exciting time for those finishing up their high school career and a time where a shopping frenzy for the perfect dress and the right makeup look begins!

i was invited as lead makeup artist at the holt renfrew prom fashion show event at yorkdale mall this past weekend. i was so excited to create four different makeup looks to reflect four different types of outfits: vintage, brights, rocker and ladylike. to keep the look young and fresh for a teen, i decided to modernize some classic looks. here are my tips on doing this:

1. vintage look: to keep the look soft and romantic, try using blush as eyeshadow. use a light pink over the lid and a deeper pink in your crease. to make pink wearable around the eyes, remember to pair it with brown eyeliner and a set of fluffy falsies. 

makeup look created and done by patricia lee 


2. brights: take your regular natural look makeup and add a touch of colour on the outer edge of the crease colour.

makeup look created by patricia lee and done by shima

3. rocker: replace the black eyeshadow for the smoky eye with metallic shades of blue or purple.makeup look created by patricia lee and done by sarah yama

4. ladylike: pick a red lipstick with flecks of gold to keep it youthful and opt for a brown gel liner rather than black for the winged eye.

makeup look created by patricia and done by eva

all those tips will keep the look young which is much more suitable for the age group. most importantly, keep the skin looking dewy. beautiful makeup always begins with beautiful skin. here’s how to achieve the dewy look:
  1. skin care routine: cleanse, hydrate, treat, moisturize. for young skin, i recommend using the shu uemura depsea hydrability line which contains a high concentrate of depsea water – very moisturizing but light.
  2. makeup base: shu uemura uv underbase mousse evens out skin before foundation and gives something for the foundation to adhere to which ensures that makeup lasts all night.
  3. foundation: for a dewy glow, use shu uemura face architect illuminating moisture foundation. for the looks, i didn’t finish off with powder, but if you have combination skin, dust some loose powder on your t-zone.

here are some photos from the event. i had a great time working with my team at shu uemura yorkdale and had the honour of doing makeup for liv judd shopping editor of loulou magazine.

how to wear yellow and green makeup

April 25, 2012
how to, reviews
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so many of us shy away from colours because we’re not sure how to wear them. i wanted to do a follow-up post on the one i did about sultry yellow and green makeup. the key to making colours wearable is colour placement. i’ll show with you some tips on how to do this.

i’ll be taking the same eyeshadow colours from the below look  and turning it into a wearable version on myself (please excuse the bright lighting for the photos of myself – i had to take the photos by myself on a small camera with a large flash!):

tips on how to re-create this look. you can basically do this with any colour; you just need a lighter base colour, a darker colour and a matte brown. don’t shy away from colours! :

  1. colour placement:
  • take me soft yellow 336 and apply it using brush 10 all over lid starting from the centre (close to the lash line) and blending away to create a nice gradation.
  • use brush 10 and take p dark green 595 and place the colour on the outer corner of eye (the brush is the perfect round shape to place the colour – do this by lightly pressing the eyeshadow on to avoid eyeshadow falling off onto your face) and lightly sweep it inward towards the centre of eye.
  •  take clean brush 11 and soften the edges of the dark green.
  • use brush 5R to apply me soft yellow green 432 to the inner corner of eye and lower inner 1/3 of lash line.
  1. warm up and tone down the colour with matte brown. this is my big trick on making literally any bright colour wearable. i take m dark brown 895 (i can’t live without this colour; i use it with almost every makeup look), using brush 11 and i soften the edges of the darker shade of eyeshadow. so in this case, the dark green. this automatically tones down the colours and makes it wearable.
  2. finish off with a pair of fluffy falsies. if you’d like the colour to be less “loud”, wear a pair of fluffy full lashes like shu uemura smoky layers (which is what i’m wearing in the photos), so that when your eyes are opened, the colour just peaks out from behind them. if you want the colours to really show, opt for a pair of more natural lashes like the shu uemura soft cross.
  3. get the right brushes. i know brushes can be expensive, but there’s a reason why shu uemura brushes have a higher price point. they are designed for precise colour placement and limit the fall off of eyeshadow onto your face. the kollinsky hair brushes are porous, so they pick up a lot of the eyeshadow pigment of place it directly on the eye without the pigment flying out everywhere like fluffy brushes do. to blend colour, use the flat part of the brush to create gradations, rather than fluffy brushes that tend to make the eyeshadow fall everywhere. the essential shu uemura brushes are:
  • brush 10 – for colour placement,
  • brush 11 to soften edges and blend colours together,
  • brush 5R for inner corner (so good for glitter shadows because it places the glitter where is should go without fall off)

click HERE to browse the many fun shu uemura colours. you can seriously re-create this look with any of the colours. just choose one base colour, one darker contour colour and the must-have m dark brown 895 to make it wearable. have fun with it!

for my skin, i’m using the new shu uemura whitefficient uv underbase mousse. it’s a new brightening formula, so it has a purple/pink tint to colour correct and a formula containing vitamin C, algae-white and prune extract that brightens dark spots and inhibits melanin production. the whitefficient line is my current skin care obsession! it’ll be available soon!

spring 2012 makeup trend: how to wear a pop of colour

April 24, 2012
Beauty, how to
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as seen across the runways this spring season, a pop of colour is a fun way to brighten up your look. it could, however, seem difficult to pull off. if it’s your first time trying to add some brights to your makeup look, here are some tips to get your feet wet:

  1. choose a shade that you are comfortable wearing . although tangerine is hot this summer, you can start off with a colour that you are more comfortable with before trying out the orange tones. shades such as blue, green, purple and yellow are great too!
  2. choose a more subtle way of applying the bright eyeshadow. here are a few ways on doing this:
  • apply a light sweep of the colour: start from the lash line, but a bit off centre towards the outer corner of the eye and create a gradation from that point outwards using brush 10 or brush 11 if you’d like an even softer effect. line your eyes with brown painting liner, curl lashes and apply mascara.
  • apply the bright colour to the inner corner of eye: using the smaller precision brush 5R, apply the bright colour to the inner corner of your eye to brighten and open up the eyes. stick to cool tones, as warmer tones such as tangerine can make the eyes appear irritated.
  • apply the colour on the lower lash line: do your makeup as you normally would for a natural look (using browns and taupes), then using angled brush 6 OB line your bottom lash line with the bright colour to really open up the eyes.
  • apply the colour to the outer edge of the crease colour: do your makeup as you normally would using neutral colours. use a matte colour deep brown for the crease/outer corner of eye, then using brush 10 place the bright colour at the edge of the crease colour, soften and blend into the crease colour using brush 11.
3. keep the rest of the face neutral: apply peach blush and sheer lipstick. the shu uemura supreme shine lipsticks are perfect for this.

here is my list of recommended shu uemura brights to try out this season:
the new spring celestial garden trios are a perfect way to follow the above steps:
air eyeshadow trio (blue, purple, brown)
light eyeshadow trio (green, yellow, brown)
eventually, you can go bold and extend the colour further out for a playful look. To learn how to re-create the look below, click the link to visit the www.shuuemura-usa.com (under the collections section entitled “ocean blue”).
 photography by mark darren, model effie tsorovas, makeup by patricia lee
 be bold and have fun with colours!

spring 2012 trend: how to wear tangerine makeup

April 15, 2012
Beauty, how to, reviews
6 Comments

photography by mark darren mui and james mui, model: amanda z, hair&makeup by patricia lee

tangerine is the “it” colour of this season! i know that tangerine seems like a difficult colour to pull off, but trust me, any colour could look good on anyone; it’s all about finding the right shade and about pairing it with the right makeup and outfit. here are some tips on wearing tangerine makeup:

  1. use only one item of makeup that is tangerine. if you use a sweep of tangerine eyeshadow on the eyes, then keep your lips neutral and use bronzer or a soft blush on the cheeks. if you use tangerine on the lips, keep eyes neutral by using taupes/browns. if you use tangerine on the cheeks, opt for a gloss on the lips rather than a lipstick.
  2. choose a shade of tangerine that suits you. if you are fair-skinned, choose a more coral tone. if you have olive skin, you can choose a more orange  (warm) tone. if you have darker skin, choose a cooler tone of tangerine. here are some suggestions:

lip stick for fair-skin: shu uemura rouge unlimited in cr310 light peach oral

blush for fair-skin: sunlight peach creamy dome blush


lipstick for olive (tan) skin: cr330 medium grapefruit

blush for olive (tan) skin: p vivid orange glow on

for darker skin: rouge unlimited or520

blush for darker skin: m medium peach 560 (i love this one!)

find out how to re-create this look at www.shuuemura-usa.com

have fun with colours! brighten up your day with some tangerine!

yellow and green makeup can be very sultry

March 17, 2012
Beauty, how to
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when we think of a smoky sultry eye, colours such as black, greys and charcoals tend to come to mind. but experimenting with punchy colours  really modernizes the smoky eye. i teamed up with model effie tsorovas and my favourite photographers mark darren and james mui to create a sultry look using yellow, green and black eyeshadows:

to create the look:


foundation – shu uemura nobara cream cover stick for a high coverage matte look. to draw all the attention to the eyes, skin should appear completely flawless.

eyes – base colour: me soft yellow 336 (*me = metallic); crease: me olive 472 and m black 990; inner corner and brow bone: me soft yellow green ; 432 eyeliner: painting liner in black

brows – hard formula in seal brown

cheeks – gentle amber cream cheek (perfect for glowing cheeks)

lips – rouge unlimited bg 911 (bg = beige) (keep lips neutral when doing a smoky eye)

 

limited time offer! find out how to get the shu uemura travel palette

February 12, 2012
how to, reviews
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many of us ladies that are on the go are looking for a palette that contains everything that can easily take us from day to night. the shu uemura travel palette comes with four very wearable pressed eyeshadows and two cream liners that can also be used as cream eyeshadows – a base to intensify the eyeshadows. it also comes with one peachy-pink glow on blusher. for those who aren’t familiar with the popular shu uemura glow on blushers, they are different from regular blush; the texture is much smoother and it blends very smoothly into the skin (rather than sitting on the skin) to create a natural glow.

this compact palette is perfect for creating very natural daytime looks that can easily be transformed into a dramatic smoky look. with such wearable colours, the possibilities are endless; you can use whichever colour combination that suits your personality or your mood. this palette is a must-have!

colours from light to right (for above photos): pressed eyeshadows: shimmery beige, primrose, brown, black with flecks of gold || cream shadow/liner: pearly gold and black || glow on blush: peachy pink

for a limited time, with a purchase of $125 or more on www.shuuemura-usa.com you’ll receive this palette for FREE! you can’t even purchase this palette normally, so trust me, you’ll want to take advantage of this. the promotion begins soon, check the website beginning february 15th.

it’s obvious you can use all the colours to create a very subtle daytime look, but be adventurous on a night out and try out a smoky eye. follow the steps below to achieve the look. you can adjust the intensity of the eyeshadows to suit your taste.

step by step dramatic smoky look:

STEP 1: use brush 10 and apply black cream eyeshadow to lid; start from lash line and blend upwards creating the desired shape that fits your eye shape. tip: be sure to open your eye to make sure that the gradation goes passed your eye crease so that it shows when your eyes are opened.

STEP 2: use brush 10 and press black shimmery eyeshadow on top of the cream eyeshadow applied in step 1. start from centre of lid and create a gradation going outwards.

STEP 3: use brush 8HR and the brown eyeshadow to blend out harsh edges from the black eyeshadow.

STEP 4: use brush 10 and the beige eyeshadow on the brow bone.

STEP 5: use brush 2R and line the upper and lower lash line with shu uemura painting liner. use brush 4F to smoke it out using the black eyeshadow.

STEP 6: curl lashes, put on some shu uemura natural black mascara (which really helps to keep the curl) and finish off with a pair of falsies. i’m using the shu uemura slant black lashes for this look.

STEP 7: add some glow on blush to the apples of your cheeks. tip: if you have a rounder face, be sure to sweep the blush in an upward diagonal motion to create a slimmer face shape.

STEP 8: use shu uemura rouge unlimited in soft muted beige. because the eyes are bold, you want to keep the lips subtle.

a softer smoky look:

photography by mark darren mui. model: amanda z

to recreate this look:

STEP 1: use finger tips to apply the pearly gold cream eyeshadow to the lid as a base. use brush 10 and apply the primrose eyeshadow to lid; start from the centre of lid and blend creating a gradation. tip: be sure to open your eye to make sure that the gradation goes passed your eye crease so that it shows when your eyes are opened.

STEP 2: use brush 10 and the black eyeshadow and create a “v” shape at the outer corner of the eyes. extend the colour to the bottom lash line also

STEP 3: use brush 8HR and the brown eyeshadow to blend out harsh edges from the black eyeshadow.

STEP 4: use brush 10 and the beige eyeshadow on the brow bone.

STEP 5: use brush 2R and line the upper and lower lash line with shu uemura painting liner. use brush 4F to smoke it out using the black eyeshadow.

STEP 6: curl lashes, put on some shu uemura natural black mascara  and finish off with a pair of shu uemura luxe black false lashes for this look.

STEP 7: add some glow on blush to the apples of your cheeks.

STEP 8: use shu uemura supreme shine lipstick in fresh pink. the finish of this lipstick is extremely creamy. it’s perfect for those who prefer gloss but want something with stronger pigment.

how to get fresh purple eyes with the new shu uemura celestial garden collection

February 5, 2012
how to, reviews
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spring 2012 is all about colours! if you’re like me, and prefer more subtle options, then you’ll love the new shu uemura celestial garden collection. the colours are bright, but soft and blend easily together.

here’s how to create fresh purple eyes for spring using the air eyeshadow trio :

STEP 1: start with creating a perfect canvas. for glowing skin, prep with the shu uemura stage performer instant glow. it evens out the skin tone and fills in fine lines for plump, supple skin.

 

 

STEP 2: use brush 18 to apply shu uemura face architect illuminations moisture fluid foundation (i use colour 564; if your skin tone is more yellow, opt for the colours that begin with the number 7). set with face powder matte for a silky finish and finally, set everything by spritzing with depsea water facial mist (my favourites are rose and lavendar) – this is how to get glowing skin as opposed to oily skin.

 

 

STEP 3: starting at the centre of the lid, apply the purple shade using brush 10. blend away from the centre, all the way up to the brow bone. add more purple to the centre of lid. apply same shade to the bottom lash line.

STEP 4: use brush 8HR and add the blue glitter shade to the inner corner of the eye, blending slightly into the purple.

STEP 5: apply the earthy brown of the double-end eye pencil to the upper lash line. thicken towards the end in order to create a base. blend out the line with brush 10.

STEP 6: use brush 10 and apply the brown shade of eyeshadow to the outer edge of the eyes. do the same to the bottom 1/3 of lash line. line again with black painting liner; then blend and extend the line using matte black eyeshadow.

 

 

STEP 7: finish the eyes by curling lashes, applying natural mascara in black and of course, apply a pair of shu uemura falsies. i’m using slant black false lashes.

 

 

STEP 8: lips! i dabbed some pro gel cealor to my lips to get the true colour of the beautiful blooming pink lip gloss in the celestial garden collection.

 

 

here is the look:

thanks for reading! more looks to come…