how-to: smoky purple crush look using new shu uemura glitter shadows

June 13, 2012
how to, reviews
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i’ve been having so much fun playing with the new shu uemura eyeshadow textures. there are 3 new silk cream shadows which can be worn alone, as a base for shadows or overtop shadows and 6 new cream eyeshadows. these are perfect for enhancing the new glitter shadows and help to prevent eyeshadows from falling onto the face during application.

there’s also a limited edition refillable eyeshadow/blush case in white! love <3. here’s the palette i created for the purple crush look:

  • new medium purple cream shadow
  • new G purple glitter shadow
  • new P dark plum 790 pressed shadow
  • new G blue glitter shadow

this look is super easy to create…

FACE:

  • glow on stage performer to even out skin tone and texture
  • face architect smooth fit foundation in 564 (i recently switched to this one because it’s more matte than the illuminating moisture foundation since i’m oilier in the summer months and the smooth fit foundation also contains SPF)
  • face powder matte in colourless for T-zone
  • cheeks: glow on M 324 (available in Holts Canada only) and glow on P light pink 315 to highlight

EYES:

click here to see the new shu uemura glitter and cream shadows, new stretch xtreme waterproof fibre mascara and new brown manicure brow mascaras

click here to discover shu uemura hand-crafted brushes

upper lid:

  • use brush 10 and apply purple cream shadow blending from the lash line upwards creating a smooth transition
  • use brush 10 and pat G purple glitter over top the cream shadow
  • use brush 10 and apply P deep plum 790 to the inner and outer parts of the eye to contour the eyeball and create dimension.
  • use brush 11 to soften the edges
  • use brush 4F and black painting liner to draw a wide line on the lash line and tight line the eyes
  • *tip: use eyelash curler to curl the luxe black lashes first, BEFORE applying them on your lashes.  this gives the falsies a really good lift and it really widens then eye once applied.
*the tools that you use to apply shadows are even more essential when working with glitters. the best shu uemura brushes are made with kollinsky hair (asian mink) which is very porous. it picks up colour and deposits on the lip minimizing any fall off onto your cheek and gives high colour intensity.

lower lid:

  • use brush 10F (flat brush) to press P deep plum 790 onto the outer 2/3 of the lash line
  • use brush 4F and brown painting liner  to fill in between the lashes and on the waterline then press P deep plum on top – this will really set the liner! it will seriously stay on all day
  • use brush 10F and press G blue glitter shadow on the inner 1/3 of lash line and onto the centre of lower lid (overlapping the deep plum)
  • apply new strech xtreme mascara to lower lashes

the new stretch xtreme  mascara is waterproof. it’s a fibre mascara so you can keep applying to build length and volume.

BROWS:

  • i used new shu uemura brow manicure. i absolutely LOVE this new product. the little brush has 2 sides, one with shorter bristles to paint each brow (sweep upwards) and other side with longer curved bristled to put the brows in place. best part is that it’s water and sweat proof! just in time for summer!

LIPS:

how-to: pink lemonade look using new shu uemura glitter shadows

June 12, 2012
how to
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shu uemura has just released fun new shades of glitter eyeshadows! What’s even more exciting is that shu uemura has also released new cream eyeshadows which are perfect to enhance the glitter shadows and to intensify the colour of any of the other pressed eyeshadows. i absolutely love, love, love the silky texture of the cream shadows and that they allow me to press on the glitter shadows without having the glitter fall onto my cheeks (we all know how hard that is to wipe off if you’ve already applied your foundation!).

for the warm summer weather, why not try a wearable pink lemonade look? p.s. my eyes aren’t really that big, i’ll teach you how to make eyes appear wider.

FACE:

  • bb beige uv underbase mousse (the green mamechiyo bottle) | pentagon sponge
  • face architect illuminating fluid foundation in 564 (medium light sand) | brush 18
  • face powder matte in colours | brush 18R
  • glow on M | brush 20

 

 

 

 

EYES:

click here for the complete collection of new glitter and cream eyeshadows

click here to discover shu uemura hand-crafted brushes

upper lid:

  • base: use finger tip or brush 10 to apply brown cream shadow blending from lash line upwards creating a gradation
  • base: use finger tip or brush 10 to apply pink cream shadow above the brown and a dab a little to the centre of your lid to create dimension
  • inner and outer corners: use brush 10 and M dark brown 895 shadow and contour your eyeball (i know this sounds funny). asian eyes are usually more flat, so we need to create the illusion of dimension.
  • use brush 5R and sweep G light brown along upper lash line all the way up to crease
  • use brush 10 and press G pink on the centre of lid and above crease (placing glitter on the centre of lid gives dimension and makes eyes appear wider)
  • use brush 4F and brown painting liner to draw a thick line to upper lash line (you should really see the line when your eyes are opened). soften that line by sweeping M dark brown 895 on top using brush 5R
  • use brush 4F and black painting liner to tight line upper lash line and to line the base/roots of upper lash line. extend the liner outwards (not upwards) to create wider eyes
  • *trick: to prevent painting liner from drying out while you’re using it, flip it over onto the table while you’re applying
  • curl lashes, apply ultimate expression mascara and luxe black falsies

lower lid:

  • use brush 4F and brown painting liner (black will close up the eyes making them appear smaller) and fill in between lower lash line – all the way to inner corner and fill the inner corner also (this makes eyes appear wider)
  • use brush 10F to press M dark brown 895 into lash line to set the painting liner
  • use brush 10F and apply G yellow to inner corners and centre of lower lid
  • *trick: use liquid liner pen to draw a few bottom lashes on the outer 1/3 of lower lid to make eyes look wider
  • apply gold liquid liner to inner corner and to bottom of of outer edge (flick) of liner – this will lift the eyes

LIPS:

have fun!! the sunshine is out, play around with some glitter!

how to create brown dolly eyes

May 16, 2012
how to
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for the prom fashion show event at holt renfrew yorkdale, i wore a brown dolly eyed look which turned out to be a favourite amongst clients and online shu fans. i’ve received a few requests on how to create the look. so here it is step-by-step:

 

 

SKIN:

for a dolly-look, it’s important to have “porcelain”-like skin. i don’t mean that it needs to be porcelain pale in colour, but it needs to be even and glowing.

 

 

EYES:

LIPS:

smoky eyes: linda and kevin’s wedding

May 14, 2012
Bridal, how to
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i had the pleasure of being the makeup artist for linda and her lovely bridesmaids in november of 2011. when i met linda and her sister for the first time for her makeup and hair trial, she wanted very natural makeup since she normally doesn’t wear any at all. later on, her sister convinced her to go for something more dramatic and i’m so glad she was open to the idea.

natural makeup is always so lovely for brides, but that doesn’t mean that smoky eyes shouldn’t be worn on the wedding day. with the right makeup products, you won’t need to worry about smudging if you happen to turn on the waterworks! i used shu uemura black painting liner which is waterproof once dry.

for linda’s makeup, i used a mix of black, grey and silver makeup. and of course, i used my go-to eyeshadow m dark brown 895 to warm it all up. i use this shade with almost all makeup looks that i create.

linda has very fine and thin hair and she wanted some serious volume for her wedding day. so for her hair, i curled it with a straightening iron to ensure the curls stayed all day long, i backcombed her entire head to add volume then brushed and pinned it all to the side.

for the bridesmaids, to go with their pewter dresses, i chose champagne eyeshadows.

here’s a video done by talented cinematographer vladimir druts. check out some of his work; he does a wide range of work: from weddings, to documentaries to fashion cinematography.

see below for a list of shu uemura eyeshadows used to create the bride and the bridesmaids’ looks.

linda’s smoky eyes:

bridesmaids’ champagne eyes:

how to create warm sea green eyes with new shu uemura eyeshadows

May 14, 2012
how to
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the weather is getting much warmer! time to switch our darks for some colour. for those who always stick to neutral eyeshadows, a simple way to incorporate a bit of colour to your look is to switch your base colour eyeshadow in your shu uemura quad to a fun coloured eyeshadow. makeup is all about experimenting, so have some fun!

i chose to experiment with one of the new shu uemura eyeshadow shades: P light green 520. i simply used it as my base colour and did my makeup as i would normally. to keep the look soft, i used shu uemura brown painting liner on my upper and lower lash line rather than black, which can be a bit harsh. i also used shu uemura farfallina lashes, which are a mix of brown and black which keeps the look soft as well.

this is the look i wore to launch the new mamechiyo limited edition collection of uv underbases and cleansing oils (pick them up now before we run out! i’m stocking up on the bb beige uv underbase!):

here’s how to create the look:

FACE:

  • mamechiyo uv underbase in bb beige to even out my skin (especially those blemishes from occasional breakouts)
  • face architect smoothing fluid foundation in 564 (medium light sand)  (which is semi-matte because my skin tends to get a bit oily in the warmer months)
  • glow on in 561 (it’s a matte medium peach) on the apples of my cheeks, then i soften the edges on my cheekbones using glow on P510 (a pearl light peach)

EYES:

  • since the band of the false lashes is a little thicker than the natural lashes, i used brush 10F (flat brush) to press painting liner in brown in my upper lash line (creating sort of a base near the lash line)
  • use brush 10 and eyeshadow P light green 520 and apply from lash line up, creating a gradation form lash line up to crease.
  • use brush 10 and apply P medium brown 875 to lash line and outer corner. soften outer corner with m dark brown 895 and brush 11.
  • use brush 11 and apply m light beige 813 to brown bone and blend into the dark brown to soften.
  • use black painting liner and brush 4F to tight line upper lash line
  • use brown painting liner and brush 4F to line upper and lower lash line.
  • use brush 10F and m dark brown 895 to soften lower lash line
  • use brush 5R (pencil brush) and me gold soft gold 335 to inner corner
  • curl lashes, apply ultimate natural mascara in brown (it’s light and keeps the curl of the lashes so that the falsies can sit on top of them and use them as a base) and apply farfallina lashes which adds some serious volume and length!

click here to discover shu uemura eyeshadows

click here to discover shu uemura hand crafted brushes 

BROWS:

  • hard formula in seal brown. start in the middle of the brown and apply in strokes following the direction of hair growth
  • soften the brown using brush 6OB to brush through your brows

LIPS:

And here’s my lovely shu uemura team at yorkdale holt renfrew launching the mamechiyo collection and featuring our new rouge unlimited lipsticks and new eyeshadow shades:

how to create a soft coral look for summer using new shu uemura eyeshadow shades

May 9, 2012
how to, reviews
4 Comments

dear shu fans,

shu uemura just launched new shades of eyeshadows! for those who love shu eyeshadows, you know  how beautiful the texture is. it’s the best eyeshadow out there; it’s made up of minuscule powders to adhere firmly to the skin, so it goes on super smoothly which gives the appearance of a creamy finish.

for those who have yet to discover shu uemura eyeshadows, there are five different finishes to choose from:

  1. matte (M) – extreme colour payoff with a super soft texture
  2. pearl (P) – reflective pearls to give a silky shine
  3. iridescent (IR) – changes colour with light reflection at different angles
  4. metallic (ME) – silicone based oil for a deep metallic shine (appears dewy)
  5. glitter (G) – fine glitter that’s perfect for highlighting the inner corners of the eyes or to layer on eyeshadows

with all the pinks and corals that we see this season, try creating a soft coral look for this summer season. i was recently in japan and noticed all the girls with bright pink and peach cheeks and fluffy eyelashes; this is such a sweet, dolly look which is what we’ve been seeing on the runways as well.

here’s how to create the look:

SKIN:

for even and fresh looking skin, i used limited edition shu uemura bb beige uv underbase (SPF30) from the mamechiyo collection. (bb stands for blemish balm; it has higher coverage to even out skin and improves the texture of skin over time). then i used shu uemura  face architect glowing fit powder foundation (which contains SPF26) in 564 (medium light sand). a powder foundation for summer time is great, it’s mattifying and doesn’t feel heavy.

CHEEKS:

use brush 20 and apply shu uemura glow on M medium peach 561 to apples of the cheeks (for dolly look apply more colour to the centre of the apple and create a gradation extending outwards). use glow on P light peach 510 to highlight cheekbones, bridge of nose and under eyes.

EYES:

  1. use drawing pencil in brown and line upper and lower lash line and smudge/soften with finger.
  2. use brush 10 and apply P light coral 131 all over lid. tip: start from lash line and create a gradation upwards covering the entire lid.
  3. use brush 10 and apply P medium brown 875 to outer corner of eye. tip: gently sweep the colour on and use patting motion to soften; this will prevent fall off of eyeshadow onto cheek
  4. use brush 11 and dab a small amount of P dark brown 895. use this to soften the edges of the medium brown shade.
  5. use brush 11 and apply P light beige 822 to brow bone and blending into the P dark brown 895.
  6. use brush 10F (flat brush) and press P medium brown 875 into outer 2/3 of lower lash line.
  7. use brush 10F and press P light coral 131 to inner 1/3 of lower lash line. (tip: if you have dark circles, apply you can extend the coral shade lower than the inner corner of your eye; this will reflect light which reduces the darkness).
  8. use brush 2R and black painting liner to line upper and lower lash line. don’t forget to fill under and in between your upper lash line to create an appearance of a fuller lash line.
  9. curl lashes and apply shu uemura ultimate expression mascara to upper and lower lashes.
  10. finish with shu uemura smoky layers false eyelashes.

left to right: ME light silver 935, ME soft gold 335, P light coral 131, ME soft pink 155,  P light green 520, P light blue 611, P medium brown 875, P dark plum 790, ME light beige, 825, P light beige 822.

LIPS:

i’m using one of the 19 new shu uemura lipstick shades. its improved formula has much higher colour payoff (higher coverage) and is more moisturizing than the previous formula. it also has great staying power. the colour i’m using is PK320 (seashell pink). the colours always look brighter in the tube, but look super natural when applied to lips.

have fun experimenting!

my colourful photos for shu uemura mamechiyo collection

May 7, 2012
Beauty, Creative
2 Comments

shu uemura worked in collaboration with japanese contemporary kimono designer mamechiyo who designed the lovely floral packaging for the collection of four new uv underbases and for four cleansing oils. each of her designs were inspired by japanese botany: willow tree, cherry blossom, peony and plum.

to reflect the characteristics of these plants and to celebrate mamechiyo’s wonderful designs, i created a makeup look for each of the four designs. like mamechiyo’s designs, each of the makeup looks tell a story. i had talented hair designer carlos phang of Spellbound Hair Design on board to come up with the perfect hair for each of the looks.

with the help of my photographer mark darren mui and his sidekick james mui, my makeup looks came to life:

BOTAN – Peony (model: Amanda Z)

Inspiration: Young green leaves of the peony flower blooming in Spring; Its strong, fresh leaves supporting the soft, delicate flower. Bold deep green is paired with soft pastel green to portray this image.

UME – Plum (model: Aya S.)
Inspiration: During the cold winter months, the Japanese plum announces the coming of Spring. It brings a feeling of warmth during the chill of Winter; An array of cool and warm purple tones are blended together reflecting this transition.
FUJI – Willow (model: Effie Tsorovas)
Inspiration: Inspired by the Japanese willow tree. Its branches blowing in the wind creating whimsical colours with its leaves and flowers.
SAKURA – Cherry Blossom (model Ellen D.)
Inspiration: Cherry blossoms create a romantic and soft Spring atmosphere. The pinks found in the various species of cherry blossoms are so captivating. This makeup look portrays the intense pinks of some cherry blossoms, as well as the soft pink of others.
to see how i created these looks and for a list of products used, visit www.shuuemura-usa.com. it will be up soon!
our work is being displayed as we speak at holt renfrew locations across canada! here are a couple photos from the calgary location:
visit any holt renfrew location to check out the collection and to see my work!

makeup ideas for prom: holt renfrew prom fashion show

April 26, 2012
Behind the Scenes, fashion, how to, Media, Video
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prom is just around the corner! a very exciting time for those finishing up their high school career and a time where a shopping frenzy for the perfect dress and the right makeup look begins!

i was invited as lead makeup artist at the holt renfrew prom fashion show event at yorkdale mall this past weekend. i was so excited to create four different makeup looks to reflect four different types of outfits: vintage, brights, rocker and ladylike. to keep the look young and fresh for a teen, i decided to modernize some classic looks. here are my tips on doing this:

1. vintage look: to keep the look soft and romantic, try using blush as eyeshadow. use a light pink over the lid and a deeper pink in your crease. to make pink wearable around the eyes, remember to pair it with brown eyeliner and a set of fluffy falsies. 

makeup look created and done by patricia lee 


2. brights: take your regular natural look makeup and add a touch of colour on the outer edge of the crease colour.

makeup look created by patricia lee and done by shima

3. rocker: replace the black eyeshadow for the smoky eye with metallic shades of blue or purple.makeup look created by patricia lee and done by sarah yama

4. ladylike: pick a red lipstick with flecks of gold to keep it youthful and opt for a brown gel liner rather than black for the winged eye.

makeup look created by patricia and done by eva

all those tips will keep the look young which is much more suitable for the age group. most importantly, keep the skin looking dewy. beautiful makeup always begins with beautiful skin. here’s how to achieve the dewy look:
  1. skin care routine: cleanse, hydrate, treat, moisturize. for young skin, i recommend using the shu uemura depsea hydrability line which contains a high concentrate of depsea water – very moisturizing but light.
  2. makeup base: shu uemura uv underbase mousse evens out skin before foundation and gives something for the foundation to adhere to which ensures that makeup lasts all night.
  3. foundation: for a dewy glow, use shu uemura face architect illuminating moisture foundation. for the looks, i didn’t finish off with powder, but if you have combination skin, dust some loose powder on your t-zone.

here are some photos from the event. i had a great time working with my team at shu uemura yorkdale and had the honour of doing makeup for liv judd shopping editor of loulou magazine.

how to wear yellow and green makeup

April 25, 2012
how to, reviews
3 Comments

so many of us shy away from colours because we’re not sure how to wear them. i wanted to do a follow-up post on the one i did about sultry yellow and green makeup. the key to making colours wearable is colour placement. i’ll show with you some tips on how to do this.

i’ll be taking the same eyeshadow colours from the below look  and turning it into a wearable version on myself (please excuse the bright lighting for the photos of myself – i had to take the photos by myself on a small camera with a large flash!):

tips on how to re-create this look. you can basically do this with any colour; you just need a lighter base colour, a darker colour and a matte brown. don’t shy away from colours! :

  1. colour placement:
  • take me soft yellow 336 and apply it using brush 10 all over lid starting from the centre (close to the lash line) and blending away to create a nice gradation.
  • use brush 10 and take p dark green 595 and place the colour on the outer corner of eye (the brush is the perfect round shape to place the colour – do this by lightly pressing the eyeshadow on to avoid eyeshadow falling off onto your face) and lightly sweep it inward towards the centre of eye.
  •  take clean brush 11 and soften the edges of the dark green.
  • use brush 5R to apply me soft yellow green 432 to the inner corner of eye and lower inner 1/3 of lash line.
  1. warm up and tone down the colour with matte brown. this is my big trick on making literally any bright colour wearable. i take m dark brown 895 (i can’t live without this colour; i use it with almost every makeup look), using brush 11 and i soften the edges of the darker shade of eyeshadow. so in this case, the dark green. this automatically tones down the colours and makes it wearable.
  2. finish off with a pair of fluffy falsies. if you’d like the colour to be less “loud”, wear a pair of fluffy full lashes like shu uemura smoky layers (which is what i’m wearing in the photos), so that when your eyes are opened, the colour just peaks out from behind them. if you want the colours to really show, opt for a pair of more natural lashes like the shu uemura soft cross.
  3. get the right brushes. i know brushes can be expensive, but there’s a reason why shu uemura brushes have a higher price point. they are designed for precise colour placement and limit the fall off of eyeshadow onto your face. the kollinsky hair brushes are porous, so they pick up a lot of the eyeshadow pigment of place it directly on the eye without the pigment flying out everywhere like fluffy brushes do. to blend colour, use the flat part of the brush to create gradations, rather than fluffy brushes that tend to make the eyeshadow fall everywhere. the essential shu uemura brushes are:
  • brush 10 – for colour placement,
  • brush 11 to soften edges and blend colours together,
  • brush 5R for inner corner (so good for glitter shadows because it places the glitter where is should go without fall off)

click HERE to browse the many fun shu uemura colours. you can seriously re-create this look with any of the colours. just choose one base colour, one darker contour colour and the must-have m dark brown 895 to make it wearable. have fun with it!

for my skin, i’m using the new shu uemura whitefficient uv underbase mousse. it’s a new brightening formula, so it has a purple/pink tint to colour correct and a formula containing vitamin C, algae-white and prune extract that brightens dark spots and inhibits melanin production. the whitefficient line is my current skin care obsession! it’ll be available soon!

spring 2012 makeup trend: how to wear a pop of colour

April 24, 2012
Beauty, how to
6 Comments

as seen across the runways this spring season, a pop of colour is a fun way to brighten up your look. it could, however, seem difficult to pull off. if it’s your first time trying to add some brights to your makeup look, here are some tips to get your feet wet:

  1. choose a shade that you are comfortable wearing . although tangerine is hot this summer, you can start off with a colour that you are more comfortable with before trying out the orange tones. shades such as blue, green, purple and yellow are great too!
  2. choose a more subtle way of applying the bright eyeshadow. here are a few ways on doing this:
  • apply a light sweep of the colour: start from the lash line, but a bit off centre towards the outer corner of the eye and create a gradation from that point outwards using brush 10 or brush 11 if you’d like an even softer effect. line your eyes with brown painting liner, curl lashes and apply mascara.
  • apply the bright colour to the inner corner of eye: using the smaller precision brush 5R, apply the bright colour to the inner corner of your eye to brighten and open up the eyes. stick to cool tones, as warmer tones such as tangerine can make the eyes appear irritated.
  • apply the colour on the lower lash line: do your makeup as you normally would for a natural look (using browns and taupes), then using angled brush 6 OB line your bottom lash line with the bright colour to really open up the eyes.
  • apply the colour to the outer edge of the crease colour: do your makeup as you normally would using neutral colours. use a matte colour deep brown for the crease/outer corner of eye, then using brush 10 place the bright colour at the edge of the crease colour, soften and blend into the crease colour using brush 11.
3. keep the rest of the face neutral: apply peach blush and sheer lipstick. the shu uemura supreme shine lipsticks are perfect for this.

here is my list of recommended shu uemura brights to try out this season:
the new spring celestial garden trios are a perfect way to follow the above steps:
air eyeshadow trio (blue, purple, brown)
light eyeshadow trio (green, yellow, brown)
eventually, you can go bold and extend the colour further out for a playful look. To learn how to re-create the look below, click the link to visit the www.shuuemura-usa.com (under the collections section entitled “ocean blue”).
 photography by mark darren, model effie tsorovas, makeup by patricia lee
 be bold and have fun with colours!