photography by mark darren mui and james mui, model: amanda z, hair&makeup by patricia lee

tangerine is the “it” colour of this season! i know that tangerine seems like a difficult colour to pull off, but trust me, any colour could look good on anyone; it’s all about finding the right shade and about pairing it with the right makeup and outfit. here are some tips on wearing tangerine makeup:

  1. use only one item of makeup that is tangerine. if you use a sweep of tangerine eyeshadow on the eyes, then keep your lips neutral and use bronzer or a soft blush on the cheeks. if you use tangerine on the lips, keep eyes neutral by using taupes/browns. if you use tangerine on the cheeks, opt for a gloss on the lips rather than a lipstick.
  2. choose a shade of tangerine that suits you. if you are fair-skinned, choose a more coral tone. if you have olive skin, you can choose a more orange  (warm) tone. if you have darker skin, choose a cooler tone of tangerine. here are some suggestions:

lip stick for fair-skin: shu uemura rouge unlimited in cr310 light peach oral

blush for fair-skin: sunlight peach creamy dome blush


lipstick for olive (tan) skin: cr330 medium grapefruit

blush for olive (tan) skin: p vivid orange glow on

for darker skin: rouge unlimited or520

blush for darker skin: m medium peach 560 (i love this one!)

find out how to re-create this look at www.shuuemura-usa.com

have fun with colours! brighten up your day with some tangerine!

when we think of a smoky sultry eye, colours such as black, greys and charcoals tend to come to mind. but experimenting with punchy colours  really modernizes the smoky eye. i teamed up with model effie tsorovas and my favourite photographers mark darren and james mui to create a sultry look using yellow, green and black eyeshadows:

to create the look:


foundationshu uemura nobara cream cover stick for a high coverage matte look. to draw all the attention to the eyes, skin should appear completely flawless.

eyes – base colour: me soft yellow 336 (*me = metallic); crease: me olive 472 and m black 990; inner corner and brow bone: me soft yellow green ; 432 eyeliner: painting liner in black

browshard formula in seal brown

cheeksgentle amber cream cheek (perfect for glowing cheeks)

lipsrouge unlimited bg 911 (bg = beige) (keep lips neutral when doing a smoky eye)

 

The make-up look that Kakuyasu Uchiide created for the JCDC was stunning. The collection’s theme was the black eagle and Uchiide-San designed an intricate look to reflect it. I must say that it was a very challenging and technical look that requires a lot of patience, as there was a lot of gradation involved using dark eyeshadows. It took 45-60 minutes to complete one model! It was so hectic backstage as hairstylists and makeup artists worked hard to complete everything on time! At one point uk senior artist haydn jones and i were working on one model together in order to speed up the process! Uchiide-San couldn’t help but giggle at the sight of us – true team work!

I was so honored when Uchiide-San came to personally help me as I was starting the look. I’ve learned so much and have so much to practice! Uchiide-San always makes things look so simple, but the shu uemura brush technique is like no other; It requires so much discipline. Watching him at work is like watching an artist paint his canvas with impeccable precision. I’ll never forget this experience.

the venue: l’oratoire du louvre

my workstation

reference photo of the gothic makeup look created by kakuyashu uchiide for JCDC

backstage makeup area (top floor of l’oratoire du louvre); it got pretty crazy in here!

my first model complete. i loved uchiide-san’s creation of the feathered graphic design on the temple.

my second model complete. she’s canadian! amanda from ottawa – such a sweetheart.

a crazy scramble backstage just before the show


i
nside the venue – p. diddy was at this show! lol

my model rocking the catwalk!

photos taken from www.madame.lefigaro.fr

 

watch the show! the music really completed the show creating an eery ambiance.

JC de CASTELBAJAC FIRE ON ICE AW12/13 from JCDCnews on Vimeo.

I felt so honored to be invited by talented Kakuyasu Uchiide (international director of shu uemura) to shadow him at a full-day editorial shoot with Soon Magazine. The four breath taking looks created by Uchiide were shot by renowned French photographer Thomas Paquet. I was blown away watching Uchiide-San build lashes out of real rose petals! I was almost in tears seeing the beauty being created just a few feet away from me! Uchiide-San was so patient and attentive while creating each of the four looks inspired by rebirth in nature. I didn’t want the day to end. This was an incredible experience that I will forever carry with me throughout my makeup career. I even got a photo signed by Thomas and Uchiide-San! Uchiide-San has truly inspired me, yet again, to strive to better my technique and to search for beauty around me.
kakuyasu uchiide international artistic director of shu uemura. i’ve honestly never had an “idol” before until now. character + talent = truly admirable.
ludovic engrand PR manager for shu uemura. he arranged everything for me; truly made me feel like part of the family.
haydn jones senior make-up artist from UK. like a big brother, he taught and helped me so, so much backstage during the fashion shows.
yumiko yamamoto chief make-up artist UK. such a kind heart; she shared her love and passion for shu uemura with me.
the editorial magazine only comes out four times a year! i have to find out how i can get my hands on it!

ever since i first started as shu uemura’s official make-up artist for north america, kakuyasu uchiide – international artistic director for shu uemura – has kept in touch with me and is always so kind in providing me with guidance. uchiide-san is such a talented artist and has such a sincere passion for the true beauty behind the art. i had the honour of being invited by uchiide-san to work along side him and his france team during paris fashion week.

working along side kakuyasu uchiide was truly an honor. i was amazed watching him apply makeup with such ease and precision. despite such a hectic schedule, he was so calm, patient and helpful. he taught me so much even though there was so much going on. working backstage for such a renowned designer and with such an amazing team of shu uemura artists led by gracious uchiide-san was more than i could ever ask for! his concept seemed so simple, but requires so much skill; who would have thought drawing a straight rectangular line could be such a challenge! each model’s eyes are so different, requiring much skill to adapt the shape perfectly. the look inspired by a glowing, rosy face after a day on the slopes fit the collection magically. big thank you to uchiide-san for such an unforgettable experience!

my workstation

begins to get busy…

uchiide-san demos to the team the makeup look he created 

off to work i go! (photo taken from www.puretrend.com)

my first model complete

 

my second model done (photo taken from www.elle.com)

 

watch the show!

if you’re looking for smooth, comfortable and gorgeous lipsticks this season, you’ll be in love with these new shu uemura rouge unlimited lipsticks, just like i am!

here are five very wearable spring shades. of course there are so many more shu uemura lipstick colours to suit all of our many moods and tastes. they are all so creamy, which is what i love about all shu uemura lipsticks because my lips get dry and flaky very easily (yikes). theses new rouge unlimited lipsticks are formulated with supreme moisture and comfort. love them!

don’t shy away from the colours; once these shades are applied, they look so beautiful and natural.

left to right: CR 310 (cream), PK 335 (pink), MV 245 (mauve), BG 935 (deep beige), BG 911 (light beige)

left to right: CR 310 (coral), PK 335 (pink), MV 245 (mauve), BG 935 (deep beige), BG 911 (light beige)

i’ve sampled all of them and i must say, i do have my favourites. what do you think?:

above photo: CR 310 – a creamy peachy shade with a creamy shine finish

above photo: PK 335 medium fushia – a shimmery candy pink (slightly iridescent)perfect, fun spring/summer shade!

above photo: BG 935 – a soft pink beige (looks like a deep wine colour when you look at the lipstick, but when you apply it, it’s a nice pinky beige – perfect for those who don’t feel like sporting a red lip).

above photo: MV 245 – rosy mauve. one of my favourites!! it’s got a cool undertone, so it’s a cool pink. i love this because i personally don’t like when my lips are red; some of you ladies know what i’m talking about! i prefer cool, nude lips on myself.

above photo: BG 911 – soft muted beige. this colour is perfect with a smoky eye. when eyes are intense, you want to tone down the rest of your makeup (so muted lips, natural soft blush). unlike other nude lipsticks that make your lips look dry and caky, this new formula is seriously super moist and make your lips look full (no wrinkles) and shiny.

which one do you like most?

i had been itching to do some creative makeup ever since the shu uemura beauty make-up art competition. when it comes to makeup, the fun part about it all for me is using it to create a beautiful image. makeup is the art of expression; it’s interesting how beauty is perceived by each person – it’s so subjective and that’s the beauty of it all.

i was chatting with one of my models and she was telling me how she loves “ugly pretty”. that made me giggle, because i knew exactly what she meant. like everyone else, i love the classic “pretty” that we all see in beauty shots and i love creating those makeup looks, but i also love what’s “ugly pretty”. makeup looks that are out of the ordinary really intrigue me.

i met illustrator with a new found love for photography, dominique fung, who appreciate the same type of beauty. we got together early 2012 for a creative photoshoot with three other models and wonderful hairstylists from salon de éléphant in toronto.

here is the first of the series of three images that we created together:

i wanted to create a look that draws the viewer’s attention to the icy blue eyes. i muted out her lips and her skin tone so that all that’s left is her gaze. i used shu uemura colour atelier pressed eyeshadows in various shades of blue to create this look. they really made model emily’s blue eyes pop. to finish off this dramatic “ugly pretty” look, i used the dance in glitter premium lashes from the wkw holiday collection.

what do you think of my expression of “ugly pretty”?

as i was writing my post on the celestial garden collection which includes the new lip gloss in corona orange, i realized that i have not yet posted my mention in Flare Magazine’s january 2012 issue! i was so excited to be able to give my take on this year’s hot colour: orange!

one of my favourite makeup items right now is my orange shade glow on blush in p vivid orange 571. i must admit, at first i wasn’t sure that orange would suit me. but actually, it works so well with literally any skin tone. if you’re not yet feeling daring enough to add a bright punch of colour to your cheeks, you can try a more peach-toned tangerine shade in m medium peach 561, which is also gorgeous.

this season is all about bright pinks and oranges. experiment with some lip and cheek colours; it’s a fun way to welcome the spring season that we’re all impatiently awaiting! it gives an instant youthful glow; a great way to change up your makeup look.

 

 

 makeup is all about having fun; try out some new colours!

 

many of us ladies that are on the go are looking for a palette that contains everything that can easily take us from day to night. the shu uemura travel palette comes with four very wearable pressed eyeshadows and two cream liners that can also be used as cream eyeshadows – a base to intensify the eyeshadows. it also comes with one peachy-pink glow on blusher. for those who aren’t familiar with the popular shu uemura glow on blushers, they are different from regular blush; the texture is much smoother and it blends very smoothly into the skin (rather than sitting on the skin) to create a natural glow.

this compact palette is perfect for creating very natural daytime looks that can easily be transformed into a dramatic smoky look. with such wearable colours, the possibilities are endless; you can use whichever colour combination that suits your personality or your mood. this palette is a must-have!

colours from light to right (for above photos): pressed eyeshadows: shimmery beige, primrose, brown, black with flecks of gold || cream shadow/liner: pearly gold and black || glow on blush: peachy pink

for a limited time, with a purchase of $125 or more on www.shuuemura-usa.com you’ll receive this palette for FREE! you can’t even purchase this palette normally, so trust me, you’ll want to take advantage of this. the promotion begins soon, check the website beginning february 15th.

it’s obvious you can use all the colours to create a very subtle daytime look, but be adventurous on a night out and try out a smoky eye. follow the steps below to achieve the look. you can adjust the intensity of the eyeshadows to suit your taste.

step by step dramatic smoky look:

STEP 1: use brush 10 and apply black cream eyeshadow to lid; start from lash line and blend upwards creating the desired shape that fits your eye shape. tip: be sure to open your eye to make sure that the gradation goes passed your eye crease so that it shows when your eyes are opened.

STEP 2: use brush 10 and press black shimmery eyeshadow on top of the cream eyeshadow applied in step 1. start from centre of lid and create a gradation going outwards.

STEP 3: use brush 8HR and the brown eyeshadow to blend out harsh edges from the black eyeshadow.

STEP 4: use brush 10 and the beige eyeshadow on the brow bone.

STEP 5: use brush 2R and line the upper and lower lash line with shu uemura painting liner. use brush 4F to smoke it out using the black eyeshadow.

STEP 6: curl lashes, put on some shu uemura natural black mascara (which really helps to keep the curl) and finish off with a pair of falsies. i’m using the shu uemura slant black lashes for this look.

STEP 7: add some glow on blush to the apples of your cheeks. tip: if you have a rounder face, be sure to sweep the blush in an upward diagonal motion to create a slimmer face shape.

STEP 8: use shu uemura rouge unlimited in soft muted beige. because the eyes are bold, you want to keep the lips subtle.

a softer smoky look:

photography by mark darren mui. model: amanda z

to recreate this look:

STEP 1: use finger tips to apply the pearly gold cream eyeshadow to the lid as a base. use brush 10 and apply the primrose eyeshadow to lid; start from the centre of lid and blend creating a gradation. tip: be sure to open your eye to make sure that the gradation goes passed your eye crease so that it shows when your eyes are opened.

STEP 2: use brush 10 and the black eyeshadow and create a “v” shape at the outer corner of the eyes. extend the colour to the bottom lash line also

STEP 3: use brush 8HR and the brown eyeshadow to blend out harsh edges from the black eyeshadow.

STEP 4: use brush 10 and the beige eyeshadow on the brow bone.

STEP 5: use brush 2R and line the upper and lower lash line with shu uemura painting liner. use brush 4F to smoke it out using the black eyeshadow.

STEP 6: curl lashes, put on some shu uemura natural black mascara  and finish off with a pair of shu uemura luxe black false lashes for this look.

STEP 7: add some glow on blush to the apples of your cheeks.

STEP 8: use shu uemura supreme shine lipstick in fresh pink. the finish of this lipstick is extremely creamy. it’s perfect for those who prefer gloss but want something with stronger pigment.

as requested by one of my readers, here are colour swatches for the two shu uemura celestial garden eyeshadow trio palettes. each palette comes with three very wearable colours: a glitter shadow to highlight, a pastel colour shadow for the lid and a brown shadow to contour and/or line eyes.

these beautiful palettes are refillable. once you’re finished with the three pans, you can replace them with any two of the regular sized shu uemura colour atelier eyeshadow refills. you can also opt to replace them with one of the shu uemura glow on blushers.

perfect colour combos for spring or summer!